The International Commission for the Research

into European Food History



Welcome to ICREFH's webpages

These pages contain information about ICREFH, its colloquia and publications



The International Commission for Research into European Food History was founded in Münster (Germany) in 1989 on the initiative of Hans-Jürgen Teuteberg. ICREFH is an interdisciplinary and international group of scholars, which includes several disciplines such as history, ethnology, sociology, economics, geography, technology and natural sciences. It deals with the history of food and nutrition in Europe since the late eighteenth century. Special attention is devoted to the relationship between the culinary culture and processes of industrialisation and urbanisation.

This network of scholars organises biennial colloquia on relevant topics of research, and it publishes the results in books (see below). The official language is English, with German and French as working languages.


President: Prof. Dr. Alain Drouard , Directeur de recherche au CNRS, 16 rue Parrot 75012 Paris, France

Prof. Dr. David Gentilcore, School of Historical Studies, University of Leicester, United Kingdom

Dr. Sylvie Vabre, UFR d’Histoire, Université Toulouse Le Mirail, 5 allée A. Machado, 31058 Toulouse cedex 9, France,

Dr Martin Franc, Masaryk Institute and Archives of Academy of Sciences of Czech Republic, Gabcikova 10/2362, 182 Praha 8, Czech Republic


Prof. Em. Dr. Hans-Jürgen Teuteberg (Münster) 1989 - 1994

Dr. Adel den Hartog (Wageningen) 1995 -1999

Prof. Dr. Peter Scholliers (Brussels) 2000-2003

Prof. Dr. Peter Atkins (Durham) 2004 - 2007



(L. Brunin, Le mangeur de moules, 1886, Royal Library, Brussels)



1. Aims and Objectives: The International Commission for Research into European Food History (ICREFH) is a working group of those studying the history of food and nutrition in Europe since the late eighteenth century. ICREFH holds biennial symposia upon subjects agreed by the members and publishes its findings. It issues a Newsletter outlining its activities and has a website.

2. Officers: ICREFH is led by a President, who acts as its spokesperson. The President normally holds office for four years and may be re-elected for one further term. Holders of the position become Vice-Presidents on their retirement from office. One of the Vice-Presidents will assume the office of President if the President resigns or, for any reason, cannot complete his or her term of office.

3. Committee: Three members of ICREFH act as a Committee to support and advise the President. The term of office is four years. No one may serve more than two terms consecutively.

4. Biennial General Meeting: ICREFH holds a Biennial General Meeting (BGM) at each symposium. The BGM chooses the President and Committee members. The BGM agrees the theme and location of the next symposium. The BGM may appoint a Symposium Planning Committee of up to three members to advise the Organizer of the next symposium. Notice of the BGM and its Agenda will be circulated by ICREFH Newsletter before the symposium. The President shall ask one member to take the minutes of the BGM. These will be circulated to members by the ICREFH Newsletter.

5. Membership: Membership is by invitation.



A Newsletter is published once or twice a year (latest: August 2014); see the collection here.


Report on the 13th COLLOQUIUM: Food and Major Exhibitions in the 19th and 20th Centuries (Brussels, September 2013)

The focus of this symposium is on major exhibitions and, particularly, international exhibitions and world’s fairs. These were and are events that appeal to millions of people (visitors, writers, photographers, readers), produce an ephemeral yet tangible view of modernity, displaying new goods and ideas, involve manufacturers, scientists, municipalities, governments, journalists, and consumers, are full of ideologies, shape memories and are places of international communication. Starting in 1851 (London), international exhibitions have been organized very regularly, right up to the present. Seven countries in Europe have hosted a world exhibition and most European countries have participated in one. Moreover, international exhibitions dealing with specific themes like electricity, horticulture, arts & crafts, or hygiene were organized across Europe. Food plays a crucial role in these events: visitors eat and drink, officials are offered banquets, manufacturers display their products, and scientists meet to discuss hygiene or innovative production processes. Moreover, it seems that some nations utilize food and drink to shape and express (corporate, urban, regional or national) identity. As such, food offers the perfect tool to investigate the construction of national or corporate sentiments. World exhibitions allow the investigation of economic, social, cultural, and political issues of food, with confrontations and exchanges within Europe and between Europe and other continents. This also touches upon exoticism, prejudices, innovation, and entertainment. The aim of the symposium is to provide better insight into the economic, social, cultural, and political issues of food and the recent evolutions in European food habits and food cultures (e.g. internationalization) as a result of the confrontations and exchanges within Europe and between Europe and other parts of the world. For more information and the full programme, see FARO's website: Nelleke Teughels and Peter Scholliers have prepared a typescript that is submitted to Ashgate for external peer-review before publication.


The 14th SYMPOSIUM: Food and the life-span in Europe 1800-2000 (Copenhagen, 28 to 30 September 2015)

Organizers: Dr Tenna Jensen and Dr Caroline Nyvang (Copenhagen)

Location: University of Copenhagen, Faculty of Humanities

Rationale: The aim of this symposium is to attract contributions from a range of academic disciplines, including history, sociology, anthropology, biology and nutrition, in order to shed light on the changing relationship between food and the life-span in Europe from an historical perspective. Examining changes in the relationship between food and different age segments of the population, both in and across time, will enhance our overall understanding of the fundamental changes in European standards of living during and after industrialization. From 1800 to 2000 Europe underwent a series of significant changes: the population increased more than five-fold; European countries were transformed from rural to predominantly urban societies; real wages rose and, as the food supply increased, food expenditure eventually took up a smaller share of household budgets. These developments have had profound influence on the way Europeans understand, and relate to food throughout their lives. Even if all European countries experienced economic growth between 1800 and 2000, changes in food culture, perceptions, and practices differed across the continent. National differences in diet just as much as differences in ethnicity and gender, illustrate the importance of cultural, social, and political choices in the formation of our societies. It is our hope that the symposium will attract contributions from all parts of Europe and thus provide us with a richer image of the similarities and differences between national developments.

Call for Papers: We invite papers dealing with food consumption and the life-span from 1800 to 2000. The approach can be longitudinal in order to highlight changes or similarities over time or focus on the cross-sectional relationship between food expenditure, life cycle, and environmental structure, whether for whole populations or specific groups. We encourage papers on topics such as daily dietary routines, the psychology of eating, and age-specific patterns of food consumption, as well as the promotion of food for different cohorts, e.g. age-specific nutritional science as well as marketing and public health campaigns. The introduction of food regulations and policies might be considered in connection with diets in hospitals, nurseries and other public institutions like prisons or the armed forces. Prospective contributors to the symposium should send a provisional title of their paper accompanied by an abstract of about 200 words. Papers should aim to be around 5,000 words in length (all in) and will be circulated to all participants in advance of the symposium. Participants at the symposium will have 20 minutes to present the key points of their papers followed by a period of discussion.

Proposals for papers should be submitted to Dr Tenna Jensen by 30 November, 2014 (including NAME, TITLE, POSITION (e.g. Professor, Lecturer, Ph.D. student, Postdoc, etc.), INSTITUTION: Contact Address: Telephone: E-mail, Provisional title of Paper, and Summary of Topic (max. 200 words): This form should be sent by e-mail to Dr Tenna Jensen <> .



The Current State of European Food History Research (Münster, Germany, 1989)

The Origins and Development of Food Policies in Europe (London, United Kingdom, 1991)

Food Technology, Science and Marketing (Wageningen, the Netherlands, 1993)

Food and Material Culture (Vevey, Switzerland, 1995)

Order and Disorder: the Health Implication of Eating and Drinking (Aberdeen, Scotland, 1997)

The Landscape of Food: Town, Countyside and Food Relationships (Tampere, Finland, 1999)

Eating and Drinking Out in Europe since the late Eighteenth Century (Alden Biesen, Belgium, 2001). A scientific report of the colloquium may be read by clicking here.

The Diffusion of Food Culture: Cookery and Food Education during the last 200 years (Prague, Czech Republic, 2003). A report of the colloquium may be read by clicking here.

Food and the City (Berlin, Germany, 2005). A report of the symposium may be read by clicking here.

From Undernutrition to Obesity : Changes in Food Consumption in Twentieth-Century Europe (Oslo, Norway, 2007).

Food and War in Europe in the 19th and 20th Centuries (Paris, France, 2009)

History of the European Food Industry in the 19th and 20th Centuries (Bologna, Italy, 2011)

Food at Major Exhibitions in the 19th and 20th Centuries (Brussels, Belgium, 2013)



(H. Löffler, Grosses Illustriertes Kochbuch, Ulm, 1878, p.3)



Hans. J. Teuteberg (ed.), European Food History. A Research Overview, Leicester (Leicester University Press), 1992, 297 pp. (ISBN 0718513835)

Content: Hans J. Teuteberg, Agenda for a comparative European history of diet. - Derek J. Oddy/John Burnett, British diet since industrialization: a bibliographical study. -Louis Michael Cullen, Comparative aspects of Irish diet,1550 -1850. - Adel P. den Hartog, Modern nutritional problems and historical nutrition research, with special reference to the Netherlands. - Peter Scholliers, Historical food research in Belgium: development, problems and results in the 19th and 20th centuries. - Eva Barl?sius, The history of diet as a part of vie mat?rielle in France. - Hans J. Teuteberg, The diet as an object of historical analysis in Germany. - Rudolf Weinhold, Food research from the viewpoint of ethnology, economic and social history in the former German Democratic Republic, 1949-1989. - Roman Sandgruber, Nutrition in Austria in the industrial age. - Martin R. Schaerer, Food history in Switzerland: a survey of the literature. - Eszter Kisbàn, Food and foodways as a subject of historical sciences in Hungary. - Andrzej Wyczansky, A methodological approach to the system of food consumption in the 16th-century Poland. - Michael R. Rabinovitsch, Ethnological studies in the traditional food of the Russians, Ukrainians and Byelorussians between the 16th and 19th centuries: state of research and basis problems. - Lydia Petrànovà, Development and possibilities of historical studies of meals and nourishment in Bohemia. - Mats Essemyr, Nutritional needs and social esteem: two aspects of diet in Sweden during the 18th and 19th centuries. - Stephen Mennell, Divergences and convergences in the development of culinary cultures. - Index.

John Burnett & Derek Oddy (eds.), The Origins and Development of Food Policies in Europe, London (Leicester University Press), 1994, 265 pp. (ISBN 0718514742 (hb) and 071851 1694 (pb) )

Content: I. Dietary policy in wartime: Maria Concetta Dentoni, Black bread and social peace: ItalyOs dietary politics during the First World War. - Lydia Petrànovà, The rationing system in Bohemia during the First World War. - Peter Scholliers, The policy of survival: food, the state and social relations in Belgium,1914-1921. - II. State policy and group at risk: Johns Burnett, The rise and decline of school meals in Britain,1860-1999. - Adel P. den Hartog, Feeding school children in the Netherlands: conflicts between state and family responsibilities. - Thor Jensen, The political history of Norwegian food policy. - III. The development of quality control: Marjatta Hietala, Hygiene and the control of food in Finnish towns at the turn of the century: a case study from Helsinki. - Sally M. Horrrocks, Quality control and research: the role of scientists in the British food industry,1870-1930. - Hans J. Teuteberg, Food adulteration and the beginnings of uniform food legislation in late nineteenth-century Germany. - IV. Dietary trends: Mats Essemyr, Food policy in Sweden during the World Wars. - Eszter Kisbàn, The beginnings of potato cultivation in Transsylvania and Hungary: government policy and spontaneous process. - Christoph Maria Merki, Sugar versus saccharine: sweetener policy before Word War I. - V. Diet in institutional context: E. Margaret Crawford, The workhouse diet in Ireland before and during the Great Famine. - Hanna Krajewska, The care of the poor by the charity institutions of the Protestant Augsburgian Community in Warsaw from the eighteenth to the twentieth century. - VI. The effect of the EC on European food: Alan Swinbank, The ECOs policies and its food. - Index.

Adel P. den Hartog (ed.), Food Technology, Science and Marketing: European Diet in the Twentieth Century, Tuckwell Press, East Linton/Scotland 1995, 283 pp. (ISBN 1 898410 71 2)

Content: I. Food industry and food innovation: Sally M. Horrocks, Nutrition science and the food industry in Britain, 1920-1990. - Martin R. Schaerer, Analysis of nutritional status, the food industry and food product innovation in the late nineteenth century with reference to prefabricated pulse powder. - Annemarie de Knecht-van Eekelen, The best substitute for motherOs milk: proprietary preparations between the rise of paediatrics and the science of nutrition in the Netherlands during the twentieth century. - Hans-Jürgen Teuteberg, History of cooling and freezing techniques and their impact on nutrition in twentieth-century Germany. - John Burnett, The decline of staple food: bread and the baking industry in Britain, 1890-1990. - Rudolf Weinhold, Concentration processes in Dresden baking trade, 1949-1989. - II. Dietary patterns and the food industry: Unni Kjaerness, Milk: nutritional science and agricultural development in Norway, 1890-1990. - Jacques Pinard: The development of cheese consumption in France during the last 150 years. - Peter Scholliers, From elite consumption to mass consumption: The case of chocolate in Belgium. - Francesco Chiapparino, Industrialization and food consumption in United Italy. - Marjatta Hietala, From famine to welfare: food patterns in Finland during the past hundred years. - Eszter Kisbàn, Economics of shortage: conditions of the food market in the case of Hungary. - III. Food retail and marketing: Derek J. Oddy, From corner shop to supermarket: the revolution in food retailing in Britain, 1932-1992. - Uwe Spiekermann, Rationalisation as a permanent task: The German food retail trade in the twentieth century. - E. Margret Crawford, Food retailing, nutrition and health in Ireland,1839-1989: one hundred and fifty years of eating. - Claude Thouvenot, A retail system in rural Lorraine: intinerant food trade, 1865-1991. - Anneke van Otterloo, The development of public distrust of modern food technology in the Netherlands: professionals, laymen and ConsumerOs Union. - Adel P. den Hartog, The role of nutrition in food advertisements : the case of the Netherlands. - Index.

Martin R. Schaerer/Alexander Fenton (eds.), Food and Material Culture. Tuckwell Press, East Linton/Scotland in association with Alimentarium, Vevey, Switzerland, and The European Ethnological Research Centre, Edinburgh 1998, 358 pp. (ISBN 1 86232 002 0)

Content: Jean - François Bergier, Food and material culture. - Martin R. Schaerer, Food and material culture - a museological approach. I. The kitchen: Alexander Fenton, Hearth and kitchen: the Scottish example. - Ulrike Thoms, Changes in the kitchen range and changes in food preparation techniques in Germany, 1850 - 1950. - Eszter Kisbàn, Metal and wheat: the kitchen range in an European periphery. - Maja Godina-Golija, Oven - cooking stove - microwave: changes in the kitchen appliances in Slovenia. - Rudolf Weinhold, Brown ceramics: rise and fall of a ceramic novelty in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. - II. The table: Hans Ottomeyer, Service à la française and service à la russe: or the evolution of the table between the eigtheenth and nineteenth centuries. - John Burnett: Time, place and content: the changing structure of meals in Britain in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. - Hans Jürgen Teuteberg, The German bourgeois family at the dining table: structural changes of meal manners, 1880-1930. - II. New technologies: Jakob Tanner, The meal in the factory: food-related facilities in the industrial production in Switzerland (late nineteenth to mid-twentieth century). - Martin Bruegel, From the shop floor to the home: appertising and food preservation in households in rural France, 1810 -1930. - Adel P. den Hartog, Serving the urban consumer: the development of modern packaging with special reference to the milk bottle. - Lydia Petrànovà, From traditional to industrial milk processing. - Derek J. Oddy/Judy R. Oddy, The iceman cometh: the effect of low-temperature technology and the British diet. - Marjatta Hietala/Vuokko Leopist?, Artic Finland and the new technology of food preservation and refrigation, 1850-1990. - Francesco Chiapparino, Milk and fondant chocolate and the emergence of the Swiss chocolate industry at the turn of the twentieth century.

Alexander Fenton (ed.), Order and Disorder: The Health Implications of Eating and Drinking in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries, Aberdeen 1997, Tuckwell Press Ltd., East Linton/Scotland 2000, 342 pp. (ISBN 1 86232 117 5)

Content: Guest Lecture: The modern scene: T. Hugh Pennington, BSE and E-coli food crises. I. Nutrition, The Carnegie Survey and Sir John Boyd Orr: Johns Burnett, Glasgow Corporation and the food of the poor,1918-24: a context for John Boyd Orr. - David Gunnel, Epidemiological follow-up of the Carnegie (Boyd Orr) Survey of diet and health in pre-war Britain. - Derek J. Oddy, The paradox of diet and health: England and Scotland in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. - David Smith, The Carnegie Survey: background and intended impact.- II. Food consumption and health: P. J. Atkins, Milk consumption and tuberculosis in Britain, 1850-1950. - Katarzyna Cwiertka, Propagation of nutrional knowledge in Poland, 1863-1939. - Annemarie de Knecht-van Eekelen/Anneke van Otterloo, OWhat the body needsO: developments in medical advice, nutrional science and industrial production in the twentieth century.- Maja Godina-Golija, Food culture of the less affluent Slovene urban population and efforts for its improvement: the case of Maribor Municipality, 1900-1940. - Inger Johanne Lyngo, Symbols in the rhetoric on diet and health - Norway 1930: the relation between science and the performance of daily chores. - Sabine Merta, 'Keep fit and slim!' Alternative ways of nutrition aspects of the German health movement.- Arounda P. Ouadraogo, Vegetarism in fin-de-siècle France: the social determinance of vegetarian's misfortune in pre-World War I France.- Peter Scholliers, The medical discourse and the drunkard's stereotyping in Belgium, 1840-1919.- Jakob Tanner, Food, Fibres and Health. - Hans J. Teuteberg, The discovery of vitamines: laboratory research, reception, industrial production. - Ulrike Thoms, Between medical ideals and financial restraints: standards of German hospital food in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.- III. Food products and health: John Burnett, From cordial waters to Coca-Cola: soft drinks and health in Britain. - IV. Tobacco: Christoph Maria Merki, The changing perceptions of tobacco: smoking in Germany during the 1930s and 1940s. - Index.


Marjatta Hietala and Tanja Vahtikari (eds), The Landscape of Food: The Food Relationship of Town and Country in Modern Times, Helsinki, 2003

Content: List of contributors 1 Introduction Marjatta Hietala and Tanja Vahtikar. Part 1: Feeding the towns 2 Veterinarians, abattoirs and the urban meat supply in the Netherlands, 1860-1940 Peter A. Koolmees 3 Cultivation, markets and the rise in vegetable consumption in German towns, 1850-1913 Hans J. Teuteberg 4 Vegetables for Dutch townspeople: the role of marketing and nutrition education, 1870-1990 Adel den Hartog 5 Vegetables in the food culture of the Slovenian urban population between 1850 and 1950 Maja Godina Golija 6 Eat in or take away: food and drink in Central European public houses around 1800 Beat Kümin Part 2: The urban-rural interface 7 The English village labourer revisited: self-provisioning and the commercialization of diet, 1790-1914 John Burnett 8 Formalizing relationships during the twentieth century: the roles of town and country in the British diet, 1860-1950 Derek J. Oddy 9 From food to leisure: the changing position of the jardin ouvriers movement in the Netherlands from 1880 to the present day Annemarie de Knecht-van Eekelen 10 Is it urban? The relationship between food production and urban space in Britain, 1800-1950 P. J. Atkins 11 Hungry, but not starving: the experiences of Finnish children in town and country during the Second World War Aura Korppi-Tommola Part 3: Tradition, crisis and innovation 12 Refrigeration and the Italian meat crisis during the First World War Maria Concetta Dentoni 13Food from the hedgerows: collecting wild fruits and plants in Scotland during the Second World War and its aftermath Heather Holmes 14 Food and natural produce from the Finland's forests during the twentieth century Marjatta Hietala 15 Modernizing the traditional Greek diet: the role of cookery books, 1833-1914 Lydia Sapounaki-Dracaki 16 A taste of authenticity: nature and tradition in modern Norwegian restaurants of the 1990s Virginie Amilien. Index.


Marc Jacobs & Peter Scholliers (eds), Eating Out in Europe. Picnics, gourmet dining and snacks since the late eighteenth century, Berg Publishers, Oxford - New York,, 2003, 416 pp. (ISBN 1 86973 658 0 and 1 85973 653 X).

Contents 1. Marc Jacobs & Peter Scholliers, Vaut ou ne vaut pas le détour. Conviviality, costum(er)s and public places of new taste PART 1. CUSTOMS IN COMMON. John Burnett, Eating in the open air in England, 1830-1914. Alexander Fenton, Feeding the shearers: endogenous developments in Scottish harvest food. Eszter Kisban, Food outdoors on farms and estates: changing eating habits of country folk in Hungary, 1760-1960. Beat Kümin, Eating out before the restaurant: dining cultures in early-modern inns. Christoph Guggenbuhl, Heaven or hell? The public house and its social perception in nineteenth- and early twentieht-century Switzerland. Oliver Haid, Early tourism and public drinking. The development of a beer-drinking culture in a traditional wine-producing area (Mean, South Tyrol). Maja Godina-Golija, Food culture in Slovene urban inns and restaurants between the end of the nineteenth century and Second World War. Julia Csergo, The picnic in nineteenth-century France. A social event involving food: both a necessity and a form of entertainment. Marc Jacobs, Trick or treat. How to dine and wine (as a group) for free. Virginie Amilien, A view of eating out in Norway: rise and meaning of restaurants. PART 2. NEW PLACES, CHOICES AND TASTES Karin Becker, The French novel and luxury eating in the nineteenth century. Alain Drouard, Escoffier, Bocuse et (surtout) les autres. Towards a history of cooks in France in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Alan Warde, Continuity and change in British restaurants, 1951-2001: evidence from the Good Food Guide. Stephen Mennell, Eating in the public sphere in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.Adel den Hartog, Technological innovations and eating out as a mass phenomenon in Europe: a preamble. Hans J. Teuteberg, The rising popularity of dining out in Germany in the aftermath of modern urbanization. Derek Oddy, Eating without effort: the rise of the fast-food industry in Britain in the twentieth century. Adri de la Bruhèze & Anneke van Otterloo, Snacks and snack culture in the rise of eating out in the Netherlands in the twentieth century. Anne Lhuissier, Eating out during the workday: consumption and working habits among urban labourers in France in the second half of the nineteenth century. Ulrike Thoms, Industrial canteens in Germany 1850-1950. Isabelle Techouy?res, Eating at School in France. An anthropological analysis of the dynamics and issues involved in implementing public policy (1970-2001). Notes on contributors. Register.

(Special discount : discount price at £14.40 (normal price £19.99) if directly purchased at Berg Publishers: click here for order form)


Derek J. Oddy & Lydia Petranovà (eds), The diffusion of food culture in Europe from the late eighteenth century to the present day, Academia , Prague, 2005, 300 pp. (ISBN 8020013253), 325 Kc.

Contents : D.Oddy & L. Petranova, The diffusion of food culture; FOOD IN THE FAMILY. H.J.Teuteberg, From the 'mother of the family' to modern housewife: kitchen practices in contemporary German housekeeping literature, 1700-1870; A.H. Bolstad Skjelbred, The transmission of food culture in Norway; V.Amilien & A. Bugge, ""Mum had potatoes everyday..." A view of the transmission of food culture in a Norwegian city; A. Fenton, The Scottish Women's rural institutes: a case study; THE SOCIO-ECONOMIC ENVIRONMENT, P. Scholliers, Restaurant personnel in Brussels and the diffusion of an eating culture, 1850-1900; A. Drouard, Teaching cookery in France in the 19th and 20th centuries; A.van Otterloo, Dutch food culture and its cookery teachers: the rise, diffusion and decline of a tradition (1880-1980); U. Thoms, From cooking to consultation: the professionalization of dietary assistants in Germany, 1890-1980; F. Duhart, The book, the cook, the housewife and ther maidservant in south-west France during the 19th century; I. Techouyères, The dynamics of the reproduction of a regional food system: food culture in the Gers area from before World War II to the present day; J. Knézy, Innovations in food culture among rural communities of Hungary, 1920-1970, S. Merta, Karlsbad and Marienbad: the spas and their cures in 19th-century Europe. A SPECIALIST LITERATURE, L. Petranova, Language, patriotism and cuisine: the formation of the Czech national culture in central Europe; E. Kisbàn, Turtle soup and beef stock - a study of contrasting cookery-book cultures in the 19th and 20th centuries in Hungary; M.Godina-Golija, Felicita Kalinsek and her influence on Slovenian eating habits; Y.Segers, Farmers' wives and food culture in rural Flanders: Ons Kookboek, 1920-2000; J.Mitchell, Invalid cookery as portrayed by English cookery books in the 19th and 20th centuries. THE INDUSTRIAL AND POLITICAL CONTEXT. A. Stanziani, The hygiéniste movement and the quality of meat in France 1870-1914; D.Oddy, Creating modern patterns of eating: the rise of a commercial food culture in Britain, 1860-1939; P.Atkins, The Empire Marketing Board; P.Lummel, The images of chocolate and coffee in the mass media in Germany during the 20th century; M.Franc, National tradition or happy tomorrows? The dilemma for Czech nutritional science in the 1950s and 1960s, S. Dillnbergerovà, Industry, business and mass media as determining factors in nutrition in Slovakia; A.den Hartog, The diffusion of nutritional knowledge: public health, the food industry and scientific evidence in the Netherlands in the 19th and 20th centuries. Index


Peter Atkins, Peter Lummel & Derek J. Oddy (eds), Food and the City in Europe since 1800, Ashgate Publishing, Aldershot, 2007, 270 pp. (ISBN 075464989X), £ 55.

Contents: Preface; Food and the city, Peter J. Atkins and Derek J. Oddy. SECTION A Feeding the Multitude: Urbanization and nutrition: historical research reconsidered, Hans Jürgen Teuteberg; 'A tale of 2 cities': a comparison of food supply in London and Paris in the 1850s, Peter J. Atkins; Urbanization and dietary change in Mediterranean Europe: Barcelona, 1870–1935, Roser Nicolau-Nos and Josep Pujol-Andreu; Food science/food politics: Max Rubner and 'rational nutrition' in fin-de-siècle Berlin, Corinna Treitel; How to feed 3 million inhabitants: Berlin in the first years after the Second World war, 1945–1948, Jürgen Schmidt. SECTION B Food Regulation: Food fraud and the big city: Brussels' responses to food anxieties in the 19th century, Peter Scholliers; Food quality in London and the rise of the public analyst, 1870–1939, Derek Oddy; Municipal laboratories and the analysis of foodstuffs in France under the Third Republic: a case study of the Paris municipal laboratory, 1878–1907, Alessandro Stanziani; The 'war against food adulteration': municipal food monitoring and citizen self-help associations in Germany, 1870s–1880s, Vera Hierholzer. SECTION C Food Innovations – the Product Perspective: The discovery of vitamins and its impact on the food industry: the issue of tinned sweetened condensed skim milk 1890–1940, Adel den Hartog; First-class restaurants and luxury food stores: the emergence of the Soviet culture of consumption in the 1930s, Jukka Gronow; A shop window of the regime: the position of Prague as the capital in the preferential supply system of selected Czechoslovakian cities, 1950–1970, Martin Franc; Born-in-the-city: the supermarket in Germany, Peter Lummel; The changing position of exotic foods in post-war Amsterdam, Anneke H. van Otterloo; The immigrant impact upon London's food since c.1850, Panikos Panayi. SECTION D Eating Fashions - the Consumer Perspective: Scientists at the table: the cultural significance of scientists' festive meals in Berlin, 1830–1940, Ulrike Thoms; Reforming diet at the end of the 19th century in Europe, Alain Drouard; Turtle soup and water porridge: some social and cultural perspectives on food habits in the city of Oslo, 1860–2000, Virginie Amilien; Food markets in the city of Bordeaux – from the 1960s until today: historical evolution and anthropological aspects, Isabell Téchoueyres; Conclusion, Peter Atkins and Derek Oddy; Index.


Derek J. Oddy, Peter J. Atkins & Virginie Amilien (eds), The Rise of Obesity in Europe. A Twentieth Century Food History, Ashgate Publishing, Aldershot, 2009, 246 pp. (ISBN 9780754676966), £ 60.

Contents: introduction
Derek J. Oddy and Peter J. Atkins; Century of hunger, Century of plenty: how abundance arrived in Alpine Valleys by Josef Nussbaumer and Andreas Exenberger ; From soviet cuisine to kremlin diet: changes in consumption and lifestyle in twentieth-century Russia by Tatiana Voronina; Slovene food consumption in the twentieth century: from self-sufficiency to mass consumerism by Maja Godina Golija; The stop-go era: restoring food choice in Britain after World War II by Derek J. Oddy; How food products gained an individual ‘face’: trademarks as a medium of advertising in the growing modern market economy in Germany by Hans Jürgen Teuteberg ; Labelling standard information and food consumption in historical perspective: an overview of state regulation in Spain 1931–1975 by Gloria Sanz Lafuente ; Food labelling for health in the light of Norwegian nutrition policy by Gun Roos; Sugar production and consumption in France in the twentieth century by Alain Drouard; Controlling fat and sugar in the Norwegian welfare state by Unni Kjærnes and Runar Døving ; Diet, body types, inequality and gender: Discourses on ‘proper nutrition’ in German magazines and newspapers (c.1930•2000) by Jürgen Schmidt; Food consumption and risk of obesity: the medical discourse in France 1850•1930 by Julia Csergo; Slimming through the depression: obesity and reducing in interwar Britain by Ina Zweiniger-Bargielowska; Socialism and the overweight nation: questions of ideology, science and obesity in Czechoslovakia, 1950•70 by Martin Franc; Separated, but sharing a health problem: obesity in East and West Germany, 1945•1989 by Ulrike Thoms ; Conclusion by Derek J. Oddy and Peter J. Atkins; Index.


Ina Zweiniger-Bargielowska, Rachel Duffett & Alain Drouard (eds), Food and War in Twentieth Century Europe, Ashgate Publising, Aldershot, 2012, 294 pp. (ISBN 978-1-4094-1770-5), £65.00 [Website price: £58.50]

Contents: Preface, Alain Drouard; Introduction, Ina Zweiniger-Bargielowska; Part I Soldiers and Their Food: Food provisioning in the German army of the First World War, Peter Lummel; British army provisioning on the Western Front, 1914–1918, Rachel Duffett; Fighting a Kosher war: German Jews and Kashrut in the First World War, Steven Schouten. Part II Home Front: the Citizens Adapt: Food provisioning on the German home front, 1914–1918, Hans-Jürgen Teuteberg; Bread from wood: natural food substitutes in the Czech lands during the First World War, Martin Franc; Hunger and misery: the influence of the First World War on the diet of Slovenian civilians, Maja Godina Golija; The Spanish Civil War and its aftermath: eating strategies and social change, Alicia Guidonet Riera; Alimentary and pellagra psychoses in besieged Leningrad, Pavel Vasilyev. Part III Home Front: the State Intervenes: Fair shares? The limits of food policy in Britain during the Second World War, Ina Zweiniger-Bargielowska; Communal feeding in wartime: British restaurants, 1940–1947, Peter J. Atkins; Rationing and politics: the French Academy of Medicine and food shortages during the German occupation and the Vichy regime, Isabelle von Bueltzingsloewen; Réalités cruelles: state controls and the black market for food in occupied France, Kenneth Mouré; Nutrition education in times of food shortages and hunger: war and occupation in the Netherlands, 1939–1945, Adel P. den Hartog. Part IV War, Modernization and Innovation: Mikkel Hindhede and the science and rhetoric of food rationing in Denmark, 1917–1918, Svend Skafte Overgaard; The modernization of the Icelandic diet and the impact of war, 1914–1945, Gudmundur Jónsson and Örn D. Jónsson; Horsemeat in France: a food item that appeared during the War of 1870 and disappeared after the Second World War, Alain Drouard; The innovative power of war: the army, food sciences and the food industry in Germany in the 20th century, Ulrike Thoms; Conclusion, Rachel Duffett; Index.

The Biennial General Meeting of ICREFH at Brussels, Tuesday, 17 September 2013




1.         President’s welcome and report:

Alain Drouard welcomed members and emphasized the problems facing ICREFH. He suggested that in future a Registration Fee should be paid to the local organizer to help cover costs and suggested 100 Euros as a suitable nominal sum. Widening the membership was also important and he hoped new researchers could be recruited.

He passed the Chair of the meeting to Prof Derek Oddy

2.         In Memoriam: Dr Adel P. den Hartog, (1937-2012). His portrait formed the frontispiece of the Bologna book. Frida den Hartog and his family were very pleased and appreciated members’ comments

3.         Scientific Report and Minutes of the previous meeting in Bologna in September 2011;

Both the Scientific Report and the Minutes were circulated in Newsletter 29, May 2013 and also in Newsletter 30, August 2013.

4.         Report by the Editors on the Bologna book and plans for publication of the Brussels Symposium; A unified editorial approach had been restored in the current book. Ashgate was very pleased with it and the book had been published in July 2013 due to great co-operation from contributors. No contributions had been received from the Italian hosts nor resulted from the additional Italian-day presentations. The format of the book was therefore unchanged from previous ICREFH publications. Ashgate wanted to know if any contributor had not yet received a copy. One damaged in production would be returned.

Brussels publication: Peter Scholliers had been in contact with Ashgate (History); he proposed History should take over from Social Geography. An initial selection committee would be: Peter Scholliers, Nelleke Teughels, Marc Jacobs and Patricia van Eckhout. Peter and Nelleke would edit the volume. It was hoped that Ashgate would recognize ICREFH volumes as a series.

5.         ICREFH Constitution. It had been published in the Newsletters and no changes had been proposed.

6.         Elections: None were due in 2013. In 2015 the President, Vice-President, and three Committee Members will be elected. The President, Alain Drouard, and one Committee Member, Martin Franc, will have completed two terms in office and will not be eligible for re-election in 2015.

Newsletter editorship: Prof Peter Atkins no longer wished to continue his much appreciated work as editor and the appointment of a successor was discussed. It was proposed that Jenny Lee (Uppsala) should succeed him. Combining the editorship with responsibility for the ICREFH website was possible subject to further discussion.

7.         Plans for a Symposium in 2015;

Tenna Jensen (Copenhagen) proposed ‘Food Consumption, Food Culture and Nutrition throughout Life in the 19th and 20th centuries’. Jenny Lee (Uppsala) and Ulrike Torell (Stockholm) proposed ‘Food Gateways to Europe: the expanding food supply chain in the 19th and 20th centuries’. These proposals had been circulated to the Committee.

The meeting discussed both subjects and offered ICREFH’s support to the proposers in their applications for funding.

8.         Any other business: The President proposed a vote of thanks to the local organizers, Prof Peter Scholliers and Dr Marc Jacobs, which was carried unanimously.






A collection of webpages (provided by postgraduate students of Vrije Universiteit Brussel) related to the history of food, cuisine, cooking, and agriculture, may be found here.



Website started in October 2001; last update: August 2014