Scientific Report

(Prague, 30 September — 5 October 2003)

The International Commission for Research into European Food History (ICREFH) was established in 1989, with the aim of studying the history of food and nutrition since the late eighteenth century. It organizes a symposium every two years, and publishes a book based on each meeting, which consists of a selection of peer-reviewed papers. In 2003 two books were published, one the outcome of the 1999 colloquium in Tampere (Finland), and the other following from the 2001 colloquium in Alden Biesen (Belgium).

At ICREFH’s eighth symposium held in Prague, in October 2003, twenty-nine papers addressed the question of the diffusion of knowledge and skills related to cooking, ingredients, kitchens, table manners, nutrition and other food topics. The subject of the transmission of food culture, taken in its broadest sense, has been tackled sporadically in ICREFH’s previous colloquia (for example, papers have dealt with nutrition education and cookery schools). Yet, it was felt necessary to deal with the diffusion of food culture as such, because of the cardinal place it takes within food history. It is a broad theme, for it addresses the whole arena between production and consumption. This involves attention to education in schools and various associations, training on the shop floor, advertising and other mass media, cookery books, transmission from mother-to-daughter, and the practice of everyday shopping and travelling experiences. Obviously, not all aspects could be addressed adequately, and some topics received more attention than others.

Historians, geographers, ethnologists and sociologists presented papers in five sections: the Family, Socio-economic Agencies, Specialist Literature, Industrial and Political Context, and General Determinants of Food Culture. In Section 1 the housewife was a pivotal figure linking tradition and innovation (papers by Amilien, Fenton, Petrànovà, Techouyères, Teuteberg). Diverse forms of professional cooking were tackled in Section 2 (papers by Drouard, Jakubcovà, Merta, Robertson, Scholliers, Thoms, Van Otterloo). Cookery books and writings by cooks were central to Section 3 (papers by Duhart, Godina-Golija, Kisban, Mitchell, Segers, Skjelbred). The wider social context (retailing, nutritional science, industry) appeared in Section 4 (papers by Atkins, Franc, Lummel, Oddy, Stanziani). Section 5 addressed the entire process of diffusion (papers by Den Hartog, Dillnbergovà, Ierapetritis, Knézy, Rittig-Beljak, Régnier). Contributions ranged between the late eighteenth century and the present day, from Norway to Hungary, between broad and specific approaches, and from economic history to cultural anthropology. Since the papers had been circulated in advance, discussion and debate were favoured over long presentations. During the final session the five chairpersons summarized the main findings of their sections, which was followed by a general discussion.

The transmission of knowledge may be studied through a simple but lucid theory of communication that involves sender, medium and receiver. These three elements were present in most of the papers. Authors devoted much attention to various transmitting agencies, including housewives, business enterprises, (rural) associations, schools of household science, the medical profession, and nutritionists; more anonymous but no less present, was tradition. Certainly, these senders have different starting points, aims, means and consequences, while their influence sometimes contradicted and sometimes reinforced each other. The role of tradition was much discussed; it appeared in papers as the "representation of tradition" or "culturally constructed tradition". In all contributions, the notion of innovation was debated.

Channels of transmission received extensive attention during the symposium. The diffusion of food culture depended upon various forms of media, ranging from plain language to multimedia. Housewives, teachers of household science and chefs talked when they were cooking, and thus transferred culinary know-how in various ways. But they also used cookery books, magazines, their own recipes, and radio and television broadcasting. In the general public sphere, advertisements, menu cards, cookery columns in newspapers, posters, movies and places such as restaurants (or tourist resorts) contributed to the diffusion of culinary information.

Recipients got least attention during the colloquium. It is possible to study pupils in schools of household science or apprentices in restaurant kitchens. Yet, it is more difficult to learn about the role of advertisements, cookery books or menu cards and the impact that they have on the general public. These topics require further research.

Overall, the discussions were extremely fruitful, which was undoubtedly encouraged by the splendid environment of the Vila Lanna (of the Academy of Sciences of the Czech Republic) and its setting in romantic Prague.

As in the past, a book will be published based on the papers and the discussions of the symposium (editors: Derek Oddy and Lydia Petrànovà).